Leeks are the gentle, sweet member of the onion family. Cooked low and slow in butter or olive oil, they collapse into something silky and mellow that makes almost anything taste better. Make a pan one day and spoon it onto toast, eggs, pasta and potatoes all week.

How to clean leeks: Trim off the root end and the dark green tops. Slice the leek in half lengthwise, then rinse each half under running water, fanning the layers open with your fingers. Or slice first, then swish the pieces in a bowl of water and lift them out, leaving any soil debris or grit behind. Save the dark green tops for soup stock.

Storage: Keep leeks unwashed in a bag in the fridge for 1–2 weeks. Wash just before using.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups · 35 minutes, mostly hands-off

Ingredients

  • 3–4 leeks, white and light green parts
  • 3 tablespoons butter or olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup water or stock
  • Optional: a few sprigs of fresh thyme, black pepper, a squeeze of lemon

Directions

  1. Clean the leeks, as above,  and slice them crosswise into thin half-moons.
  2. Melt the butter or warm the oil in a wide pan over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, salt and thyme, if using, and stir to coat.
  3. Cook 5 minutes, stirring, until they start to soften.
  4. Add the water or stock, cover, and turn the heat to low. Cook 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the leeks are completely soft and almost jammy. If the pan dries out, add a splash more water. They shouldn’t brown.
  5. Uncover and cook a few minutes more if any liquid remains. Season with pepper and a squeeze of lemon.

How to use them: Pile onto toast, with or without a fried egg. Toss with pasta and Parmesan. Fold into scrambled eggs or an omelet. Spoon over roasted potatoes or sweet potatoes. Stir into soups and grain bowls. They’re also great on pizza.

Keeps: Up to 5 days in the fridge, or freeze in small portions.